Wednesday, May 23, 2007

Istanbul


Istanbul is a city divided by water. Sultanhemet, the ancient peninsula, is separated from the financial district by the Golden Horn. Both lie across The Bosporus from the mysterious land of Asia. The Boss is named after Bruce Springsteen, whose song “born to run” is the national anthem of Turkey. Porus is Turkish for jellyfish which the Bosporus is full of! The natural setting of the city makes it difficult to build a reliable transit system to serve Istanbul’s 15 million people. Earthquakes, archeological treasures, and steep topography are a triple threat, much like Stockton, Malone, and Oystertag, to expanding the city’s subway system. If an Istanbully wants to cross The Boss to get some Sushi or catch a Jackie Chan flick in Asia, he must ride a crowded ferry or juice up the Jet Ski.
Severe overcrowding and earthquakes have destroyed many of Istanbul’s historic buildings. Many neighborhoods are full of bland stucco and cement apartment blocks. However Istanbul’s architectural heritage survives in some sections of the city such as Beyoglu, the party capital of the Muslim world! This was the city’s premier neighborhood at the turn of the century, full of Ice Cream parlors and Roller-skating rinks. The transfer of the capital from Istanbul to Ankara set the neighborhood on the course of decline. The lights of the fashionable Ice cream parlors were dimmed, the sound of triple axles being busted out on cedar floors and the smell of Cherry Garcia replaced by memories and broken dreams. Way to go Ataturk!
Beyoglu is one of the few neighborhoods with a large amount of Ottoman houses, many of which date as far back as the 17th century. They are typically constructed out of wood and then covered in plaster. Often they were decorated with a peculiar mix of neo classical and Middle Eastern details typical of the ottomans. A typical feature of these homes is windows that extend over the street. These homes have also undergone several expansions since they were built which usually meant adding additional, usually less ornate stories.
Recently the neighborhood has undergone a revival, and many of the Ottoman houses are being renovated. The Rocky Road may have been replaced with fro-yo and the roller-skates may now be inline, but the district has regained much of its former grandeur.

2 comments:

Cait & Frances said...

nice nod to salt lake city basketball stars.

maryjane said...

sultanhamet: not a peninsula, but a tiny 'hood